The Continental Divide Trail is an adventure. Not in it's purest form since you are lead across the US, but you'll be on the fringe of society as you hike for months alone or with others. I hiked the CDT in 2023 and this is an overview of all the major alternates I think are worth considering. I really encourage all hikers of this trail to try some cross-country(XC) alternates to really experience the true potential of this journey.
All alternates are navigable either by using FarOut or Leys maps. If I don't mention an alternate from FarOut, that is my soft recommendation against doing it.
Name:
Gila River
What to expect:
Walk down the middle fork of the Gila River and do over 100 river crossings. Beautiful winding river canyons, hoodoos and a hot spring. The majority of CDT hikers do this alternate. You can mail a box to Doc Campbells Trading Post which greatly simplifies resupply.
Location:
Between Silver City and Pie Town
Mileage difference:
-72.4mi
Recommendation:
Yes
Resource:
Marked on FarOut and Ley maps NM30,31,32,33,34,35,36,37
Name:
Govina Canyon
What to expect:
Follow a faint but easy track up a lush canyon. Good chance to find clear/flowing water.
Location:
Between Silver City and Pie Town
Mileage difference:
-1.7mi
Recommendation:
Yes
Resource:
Marked on FarOut and Ley map NM29
Name:
Mangas Mountain
What to expect:
Follow the old CDT route along dirt roads towards Pie Town. There is a fire lookout tower at the top you can stop by at. Just before reaching town there is a little hiker haven called Devila Ranch where you can camp, shower, cook, and use wifi by donation.
Location:
Between Silver City and Pie Town
Mileage difference:
-8.6mi
Recommendation:
If you want a direct walk into town and to avoid the highway.
Resource:
Marked on FarOut and Ley maps NM26,27,28
Name:
Bandera Crater
What to expect:
A steep but rewarding XC-climb up an ancient caldera with great views of the El Malpais National Monument area.
Location:
Between Pie Town and Grants
Mileage difference:
+0.3mi
Recommendation:
Yes
Resource:
Not marked anywhere. Reference FarOut waypoint for the Ice Caves, it is the cone to the north of that. The best way to climb up is from the north side coming from the road-to-trail transition of the CDT. Also seen on Ley map NM20b.
Name:
Bonita-Zuni Canyon
What to expect:
Avoid the highway walk into Grants. Follow dirt roads along a shallow forest canyon then a stunning geologically-stratified narrow canyon like a mini-Grand Canyon.
Location:
Between Pie Town and Grants
Mileage difference:
-3.1mi
Recommendation:
Yes
Resource:
Marked on FarOut and Ley maps NM20,21,22
Name:
Mount Taylor
What to expect:
Climb up to over 11000ft with amazing views.
Location:
Between Grants and Cuba
Mileage difference:
+1.8mi
Recommendation:
Yes
Resource:
Marked on FarOut and Ley maps NM17,18
Name:
San Luis Peak
What to expect:
I did not do this alternate but there should be tread the whole way up. Last chance for a 14er if going SOBO.
Location:
Between Lake City and Salida
Mileage difference:
-0.3mi
Recommendation:
Yes
Resource:
Ley map CO33
Name:
Twin Lakes West Cutoff
What to expect:
Follow an old jeep track and do a river crossing. Water may be dangerous to cross depending on season but there is a bridge downstream to cross safely. If you need to resupply in town then you have a 0.5mi walk in from this alternate.
Location:
Just west of Twin Lakes
Mileage difference:
-7.9mi
Recommendation:
Yes
Resource:
Ley map CO22
Name:
Mount Elbert
What to expect:
Climb the tallest mountain in Colorado(14400ft) and the highest peak of the US Rocky Mountains.
Location:
Between Twin Lakes and Leadville
Mileage difference:
+5.2mi
Recommendation:
Yes
Resource:
Ley map CO22
Name:
Argentine Spine
What to expect:
Stay at 12000ft and do an stunning extended ridge walk. Spend time with mountain goats and go by old mining operations.
Location:
Between Breckenridge and Grand Lake
Mileage difference:
-1.9mi
Recommendation:
Yes
Resource:
Marked on FarOut and Ley map CO15b comment#4
Name:
Torreys Peak
What to expect:
Summit another 14er that is less than a mile off the CDT.
Location:
Between Breckenridge and Grand Lake
Mileage difference:
+1mi
Recommendation:
Yes, you'll already be at elevation for Grays peak so it's not much more more climbing.
Resource:
Ley map CO15a
Name:
Berthoud Pass
What to expect:
A beautiful ridge walk with views of the valley to the west and a slightly sketchy scramble to reconnect with the CDT at James Peak.
Location:
Between Breckenridge and Grand Lake
Mileage difference:
-7.4mi
Recommendation:
Yes, if you are comfortable with scrambling
Resource:
Ley map CO14
Name:
Road walk north of Grand Lake
What to expect:
Narrow shoulder walk on pavement.
Location:
Just north of Grand Lake
Mileage difference:
-18.3mi
Recommendation:
No. The only reason to do this is if there are closures or you can't get permits for RMNP. In 2023 this was near impossible to figure out unfortunately, hopefully you have better luck in the future.
Resource:
Not marked anywhere but should be obvious.
Name:
Three Island Lake Trail
What to expect:
Well-maintained trail up a canyon with a rushing river. Rest at Three Island Lake and then a small straight XC to reconnect to the CDT.
Location:
Between Steamboat Springs and Riverside+Encampment
Mileage difference:
+0.5mi
Recommendation:
I have no strong feelings here. It was nice but nothing amazing, though it is recommended by Ley.
Resource:
Ley map CO3
Name:
Cirque of the Towers
What to expect:
The south end connection is full of blowdowns but past that you have good tread for most of the way. Three major passes with the reward of amazing views and of course the towers themselves!
Location:
Between Lander and Pinedale
Mileage difference:
-1mi
Recommendation:
Yes
Resource:
Marked on FarOut and on Ley map WY19
Name:
Alan Dixon Wind River High Route
What to expect:
Read about it here
Location:
Between Pinedale and Old Faithful Village
Mileage difference:
Roughly +9mi, though you can connect it into the Cirque of the Tower and the Knapsack Col alternates as well.
Recommendation:
I did not hike this though I was planning to. If you want a challenge then this is here for you. The CDT is nice but I regret skipping this.
Resource:
GPX
and the
guide by Alan Dixon
Name:
Knapsack Col
What to expect:
Stunning walk down into Titcomb Basin, a gruelling climb past Twins Glacier and up the col. A steep descent the other side down into beautiful high alpine terrain and camping.
Location:
Between Lander and Pinedale
Mileage difference:
+0.4mi
Recommendation:
Yes
Resource:
Marked on Farout and on Ley map WY15
Name:
Grand Teton National Park/Gros Ventre Wilderness
What to expect:
Cross Grand Teton National Park lengthwise as well as do some remote XC in the Gros Ventre Wilderness. This is route is what the CDT is all about.
Location:
Between Pinedale and Old Faithful Village
Mileage difference:
+54mi
Recommendation:
Yes!
Resource:
Here is a guide I wrote
Name:
Mack’s Inn cutoff
What to expect:
Road walking and a bushwhack on the west side to reconnect to the CDT. Can resupply on trail.
Location:
Between Old Faithful Village and Lima, bypasses West Yellowstone
Mileage difference:
-69.6mi
Recommendation:
No. I only did it to save time/avoid closures on the CDT.
Resource:
Marked on FarOut and Ley maps MT70,71,72
Name:
Cottonwood Peak
What to expect:
A big XC climb and descent with unrivalled views of the Bitterroot Range.
Location:
Between Lima and Leadore
Mileage difference:
+0.2mi
Recommendation:
Yes, especially if SOBO. It is only a bit more climbing than the CDT already makes you do.
Resource:
Ley map MT61
Name:
Ram Valley
What to expect:
A relaxing XC climb in and out of a rolling valley. If you're lucky you may see rams.
Location:
Between Lima and Leadore
Mileage difference:
-0.2mi
Recommendation:
Yes. Maybe the easiest and most accessible XC and you'll be doing similar XC on the CDT either way.
Resource:
Ley MT60
Name:
Anaconda Cutoff
What to expect:
Some not so fun road walks with some very fun hiking around Twin and Storm Lakes. Can resupply on trail.
Location:
Between Darby and Helena, bypasses Butte
Mileage difference:
-85.3mi
Recommendation:
Yes, I have no regrets doing this cutoff.
Resource:
Marked on FarOut and Ley maps MT31,31a-e
Name:
Spotted Bear Pass
What to expect:
The track is pleasant and similar to the rest of your time in the Bob Marshall Wilderness.
Location:
Between Augusta and East Glacier
Mileage difference:
-15mi
Recommendation:
Yes. Avoids really bad fire damage on the CDT according to Ley.
Resource:
Marked on FarOut and Ley maps MT12,13,14,15
Name:
Dawson Pass
What to expect:
Good trail and you get to stay up on the mountains a little longer with views of Bighorn Basin.
Location:
Between East Glacier and Canada
Mileage difference:
+2mi
Recommendation:
Yes, highly recommended by Ley.
Resource:
Marked on FarOut and Ley map MT7
Name:
Lake Josephine West
What to expect:
Very popular hiking trail and less horse shit than following the CDT.
Location:
Between East Glacier and Canada
Mileage difference:
No appreciable difference
Recommendation:
Yes, highly recommended by a park ranger and Ley.
Resource:
Ley map MT4
Name:
Chief Mountain Trailhead
What to expect:
Amazing hiking like the rest of the park.
Location:
Between East Glacier and Canada
Mileage difference:
-8mi
Recommendation:
If you don't have to do this, don't. I think Waterton start/finish should be the goal, but of course that may be difficult to organize.
Resource:
Ley map MT1,2,3,4
Some other alternates I would have love to known about before my hike:
- Mount Massive and Huron Peak - Colorado
- Grand Canyon of Yellowstone - Wyoming
- Gros Ventre High Route - Wyoming