I wake early and get to junction into the town of Cauterets. This is one of the few towns on the whole hike which the trail does not pass directly through so I'm hoping to take a bus/shuttle down from the mountain into the valley. I try looking around for some information but cannot find out when transportation would come by. I opt to hike the 6km(3mi) into town and the trail is quite nice following a ragging stream/waterfall.
I arrive in town and head straight to a boulangerie for some breakfast. The weather looks really sour so I plan on staying the night in town. Unfortunately check-in isn't till 1530h so I find some free Wi-Fi to kill the rest of the day. Eventually the time rolls around and I check in to a private room for the night at a local gite.
Today is a zero day. The forecast is predicting a storm over the next few days so I decide to sit it out. The next section of trail is meant to be technical and covered in snow so I want to make sure the conditions are ideal. I spend the majority of the day reading on my phone.
Today is a zero day.
Today is a zero day. I'm getting restless sitting around so much. I hang out with a French hiker doing the GR10 in the evening.
Today is a zero day. The weather forecast hasn't completely cleared but I feel like I'm wasting time and money staying in town. Tomorrow seems like it may only rain a bit sporadically during the day so that seems okay.
Ahhh, finally I'm walking again. I first have to climb back 6km(3mi) up the mountain to reach the trail. It does rain very lightly as I make my way back to the junction. Thankfully it stops just before noon as I have several climbs that are covered in snow.
I do a side trek up Petite Vignemale at 3032m(9946ft) despite it being covered in clouds. There is one steep section of snow that I take out my ice axe out for just in case. I end the day in a lush green valley sharing a hut with a French hiker as we oversee a herd of goats.
The morning greets me with a clear blue sky and my time is dominated by extended climbs. I turn off onto the alternate route so I can climb up to the La Brèche de Roland. The approach is steep and wholly covered in snow. At the final ascent to the breach I finally use my micro-spikes. The view is stunning as misty clouds whip around through the gap in the stone wall.
Upon reaching the breach I take a alternate on the alternate to head up to the Pic du Taillon at 3144m(10314ft). I'm happy to find that somehow this path is completely snow free and soon enough I'm standing at the summit overlooking the borders of both France and Spain along the mountain chain. The descent back down the valley is sketchy. I go slow and have to use my hands at some points. I get a fun extra gem as I pass the Grande Cascade de Gavarnie which is the highest waterfall in mainland France!
Once down in the valley the rest of the day is decidedly boring and the weather also turns to bring in heavy fog. I manage to stay in a cabin for the night.
The fog has cleared by morning and the air is crisp. I continue further descending into town. I have what I dub the "French lunch": a baguette, a wheel of cheese, and a saucisson sec. I wash it down with 1.5L of cola. The climb out of town is very steep but I can't complain too much as the weather is ideal.
I run into a couple from the Netherlands who make me a peanut-butter and jelly sandwich as I take a break with them. I finish my day by 1600h at a one person hut, surrounded by a herd of cows. The cows spend time pissing and shitting all around the hut and I get some shit speckles on my shirt and socks...
I'm back to alpine climbs for the day as I take an alternate route to Pic de Néouvielle at 3091m(10141ft). The pass is rocky as I scramble up over boulders in the early morning. Arriving at the pass I try to go for the summit 300m(984ft) above but even with micro-spikes I am unable to easily approach along the snow fields blocking my way. I decide to abandon the idea as it feels a bit unsafe and would take too much time to do properly.
I descend into a valley and spend the rest of the day slowly walking down a wide wind-sept ridge. The final descent into the town of Saint-Lary-Soulan is very steep. I pay to stay at a campground in town for the night and feed myself with a French lunch. This is the end of the stage and I feel giddy remembering how beautiful the alternates and snow traversals were. I'm excited to head further and higher into the Pyrenees.